Fall Tackle Maintenance
I was again planning for a great day. Winds were forecast out of the west at five mph, and temperatures were to be in the mid 60s. Couldn’t ask for a better picture.
By 10am it was still blowing 20 out of the north. The mercury hadn’t yet climbed out of the 50s. Another fishing fantasy started by a forecaster was ruined by the actual weather.
I brooded. It had been a long time since I’d been on the waters. Small craft warnings had blanked all of my free days. Now it looked like maybe the rest of the week might follow.
To my right was only more bad news. My many rods, all at the ready, showed the same dull, grimy faults. Dried fish slime mottled them all. They really needed some attention and I, unfortunately, now had the time.
I had learned long ago that putting off cleaning my gear while hoping for a few more days of fishing pretty much guaranteed filthy tackle in the spring. Once it is definitely too cold to fish, it was also too cold to think about cleaning gear. Start now, I had discovered, or regret it later.
Fish slime, once it dries on rod blanks, can require specialized attention. Most hardened slime is beyond kitchen cleaning products. If they’re abrasive enough to remove the slime, they usually also damage the rod finish. Not fatally, just enough that the dulled surface will collect just about everything.
I’ve found that ordinary toothpaste does a remarkably good job. With a mild abrasive quality that tends to polish rather than scour finishes, it cleans up just about any rod. Rubbing the paste (my favorite is Ultra Brite), onto the blank and giving it a good but brief massage, I set the blank aside for a minute or two, then scrub with an old toothbrush (of course) while rising off the residue.
You may need to assist any stubborn fish scales with a fingernail but otherwise the job’s mostly done. Completing the task with a coating of marine silicone will keep the rod shiny new and ready to go back into action. Plus, if you do get a chance to return to the water before the big chill sets in, that coating of silicone will keep the rod clean. Nothing will stick to it.
Your cork rod grip also requires special attention. First rule:
Do not scrub cork with a brush. Every cork grip, when new, is finished by filling in all of the small, natural gaps on its surface with a cork powder paste, which is then sanded smooth. Scrubbing with a brush of any kind removes the filler and leaves you with an ugly handle.
A kitchen steel wool pad, embedded with soap and bleach, is an ideal tool for even the most fouled cork grip and will not remove the fills. Lightly scrub the entire cork surface, rinse and allow to dry. Do not scrub the rod blank; the steel wool will remove its finish.
If you’ve a mind to keep that cork handle pristine, apply a generous layer of pure neatsfoot oil to the dried cork. That will keep the handle in top condition as well as giving it an extra comfortable feel.
The reel is a separate task. By that I mean separate it from the rod, clean the reel seat and lightly lubricate the rod’s reel seat mechanism. Don’t use grease or heavy oils, as they attract dust and sand. Most reels today need little maintenance, but it’s a good idea to check them over carefully. They tend to collect dirt and salt in their tiniest corners, and that is not a good thing. Clean out all the crevices, and use a good preservative on all metal parts. Corrosion X brand is my pick for the best.
Strip off the first 20 feet of line and discard it, for that first section experiences the most wear. Soak down the rest of the spooled line with conditioner. I use Real Magic, but most brands are pretty equal. The products will keep your line soft over the winter, lessen coil memory with mono and fluoro and restore the lubrication in both types as well as in braid. It also protects against UV deterioration.
Afterwards you can, guiltlessly, reward yourself with your favorite adult beverage and relax.