How to Fight Back Brush

Spraying weed killer is generally a bad idea. Spraying must be done with great care and careful targeting when the wind is calm. But if you need to spray to kill underbrush, late August and September is the time.
    When foliage is mature, photosynthesis is in high gear and the roots are being resupplied. In other words, the sugars being produced by the leaves are now translocating back to the roots. Root resupply generally begins in mid-July and is at its peak in August and September.

Time to …

  Start sowing seeds for fall and winter crops of collard green and kale.
  Mid-August is time to sow seeds for fall and winter crops of green beans, peas, lettuce, carrots and beets.
  Find full instructions at www.bayweekly.com/articles/regulars/the-bay-gardener-by-dr.-frank-gouin.

    Cut the limbs and treat the stumps now, and translocation will carry the weed killer right to the roots.
    After the stumps are cut, you have one week to treat the cut surface with chemicals. If you use Weed-B-Gone, mix equal parts of Weed-B-Gone and water. Then either paint the cut stump with the mixture or place the mixture into an oilcan and dribble it on the cut surface. To avoid having to bend down, I nail a small piece of sponge to the bottom of a stick and dab the sponge first in the solution, then on the stump.
    Glyphosate, commonly called Roundup, can be used similarly. However, do not buy the diluted spray form but rather the concentrate, mixing and applying as directed.
    Land can be cleared of underbrush within two years by this method.


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